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              彝族婦女的服飾

              時間:2011-04-04 12:23來源:人民日報海外版 作者:人民日報海外版 點擊:
              隨著時代的變化,姑娘也學會了以前只有城里才有的化妝。 觀眾與彝族姑娘一起翩翩起舞。 花腰彝姑娘的傳統著裝以及頭巾 幾年前,第一次在北京廟會上看到花腰彝歌舞時,就被她們的歌舞與艷麗服飾所震撼。十幾塊配件組成的服飾,令人眼花繚亂,魅力無窮。她們火

               

              隨著時代的變化,姑娘也學會了以前只有城里才有的化妝。

              觀眾與彝族姑娘一起翩翩起舞。

               

              花腰彝姑娘的傳統著裝以及頭巾

                  幾年前,第一次在北京廟會上看到花腰彝歌舞時,就被她們的歌舞與艷麗服飾所震撼。十幾塊配件組成的服飾,令人眼花繚亂,魅力無窮。她們火紅的盛裝彩服,歷史悠久,由古代武士的箭服、盔甲服演變而來,至今還稱之“鎧甲服”,從服飾的外觀上看,除有濃郁的古代鎧甲形狀的遺貌外,最突出的是一個“花”字,全身上下整套衣褲都繡有各種各樣的花紋圖案、花穗、珠鏈等令人目不暇接。

              一片紅的姑娘傳統盛裝,從遠處望去,還真像“鎧甲服”。

              做工精美的腰飾

                  花腰彝是生活在我國云南省紅河哈尼族彝族自治州石屏縣北部高寒山區的龍武、哨沖鎮一帶的彝族尼蘇支系的一部分,現有3萬多人。花腰彝的稱謂來源與他們所穿的服飾鮮艷奪目、腰系繡花腰帶的著裝打扮有關。長期以來,花腰彝用他們的勤勞和智慧,創造了輝煌燦爛、具有濃郁地方特色的服飾。

                  花腰彝族的傳統服飾做工精細又講究,一個心靈手巧的姑娘,完成一套服裝,往往要花三四年的時間。其中,需要掌握刺繡、挑花、散花、按花、扣花、穿花、堆花、貼布、勾邊等各種技法。花腰姑娘從七八歲開始就在長輩的指導下學習刺繡,經過幾年的勤學苦練,長到十四五歲時就成為刺繡能手,能獨立繡出巧奪天工的衣裳。

              姑娘們長衫肩上的花紋與銀飾

                  花腰彝族婦女的服飾由頭帕、大襟裳、托肩、領掛、腰巾、腰帶、肚兜、繡花鞋等十余種配件組成。其中以頭飾與腰飾最為豐富,頭部多以巾、帽、大股彩色的絨線或銀泡為裝飾,以大瑪櫻花為主圖,四周繡有花邊。頭巾、衣袖、坎肩、背部和褲腳等顯眼的部分都用馬櫻花、杜鵑花、山茶花等變形圖案,在帽檐和肩峰處,還扎有銀、銅、鋼絲為柄的花纓,走起路來左右晃動,如彩蝶飛舞。

              胸飾

                  五彩繽紛、滿身皆飾花圖案的花腰彝族服飾,從審美心理與文化生態上探其緣由,我們會發現,花腰彝族世居青山綠水,四季花艷如春,艷麗的山花時刻感染著愛美的婦女,人們上山放牧,下田勞作,路過花叢不免折上一兩枝,插在頭上把自己打扮得像山花那樣美麗,隨之產生與花媲美的審美心理。久而久之,受之啟發,選用最艷麗的色彩把最漂亮的花朵繡在服裝上,讓自己一年四季生活在鮮花叢中。

                  每逢傳統節日、迎賓待客、走街趕集等社交活動,婦女們穿上艷麗的服飾,從遠處望去又似山野上盛開的紅杜鵑,使人目不暇接,節假日里花腰彝鄉也成為展示服飾的露天舞臺……

                  近年來,美國、日本及我國的專家、學者多次深入石屏縣的龍武、哨沖鎮實地考察彝族文化,到過那里的人都被精美的花腰彝服飾藝術所折服。美國國家博物館還收藏了一些花腰彝的刺繡品與服飾。目前,石屏縣正加大力度進行民族文化產業的保護和開發工作,相信花腰彝服飾這一古老的民族文化瑰寶,必將再次煥發出耀眼的光芒。

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